Canele – French pastry

Canele French pastry

Canele French pastry

I have never seen or heard of Canele. Italian cannelotti, yes. According to wikipedia, a canelé is a small French pastry with a soft and tender custard center and a dark, thick caramelized crust.

More description of this pastry can be found in Paula-Wolfert.com:

The canelé de Bordeaux (a.k.a cannelé bordelais) is a magical bakery confection, a cake with a rich custardy interior enclosed by a thin caramelized shell. It’s a brilliant construction developed long ago by an anonymous Bordeaux cook, whose innovation has been subjected to 300 years of refinements.

Nearly black at first sight, bittersweet at first bite, the crunchy burnt sugar canelé-shell makes an exquisite complement to its smooth, sweet filling, fragrant with vanilla and rum.

Small enough to eat out of hand, these little cakes have recently gained cachet after years of neglect to the extent that they may one day rival the popularity of crème brûlée in the category of caramelized French sweets.

Many recipes don’t carry a tale; the canelé carries many. One of the oldest refers to a convent in Bordeaux, where, before the French Revolution, the nuns prepared cakes called canalize made with donated egg yolks from local winemakers, who used only the whites to clarify their wines. Any records that might verify this were lost in the turbulent revolution, thus relegating the convent story to legend.

But the alternative tale may be even better: residents of Bordeaux, who lived along the docks, gleaned spilled low-protein flour from the loading areas, then used it to make sweets for poor children. The small canelé molds, fluted and made of copper or brass,nestled in embers to be baked.

Soon, the little cakes, described by a local culinary historian as shaped like “a Doric column without a base,” began cropping up in all sizes and flavorings throughout France. In 1985, stunned by this surge in popularity, 88 Bordeaux patissiers formed a confrérie, or brotherhood, to protect the integrity of their canelés. They staged a “linguistic coup d’etat” by removing one of the n’s from the old spelling (cannelé) to differentiate their cake, with its secret method of preparation, from bastardized versions. Today, canelé de Bordeaux is the official cake of the city, while cannelé bordelais is a generic name used in Paris, New York City, Osaka, Los Angeles, etc.

“Our canelé de Bordeaux had to be protected and promoted as our own,” says Daniel Antoine, a jolly, stocky patissier who operates patisserie Antoine in Bordeaux. “Recently, chocolate and orange cannelés have appeared,” he tells me. “We don’t want them confused with the real thing.”

The official recipe, he told me, has been written down and locked in his vault. All 88 patissiers have sworn to protect its secrets. This much is known: the general recipe calls for a cold batter to be poured into an ice-cold fluted, tin-lined copper mold, then placed in a very hot oven and baked for a very long time. After baking, the canelés are firmly tapped out onto a grill while still hot, then left to cool while their exteriors harden. They’re at their most glorious one hour out of the oven; within five or six hours they begin to turn spongy. patissiers have all sorts of tricks to revive them, ranging from putting them back in a hot oven for a few minutes, to flaming them with quality rum to crisp the shells. I believe they’re so delicious that they’re worth the expense of buying the special copper molds. (See below in recipe notes.) Silicone-coated Gastroflex molds are also available although I don’t think they produce as good a result. On the other hand, the Cannele Silicon Flex 2.2″ x 1.9″Ý mold available at Bridge’s Kitchenware.com is a decent substitute for the copper molds. I brush the insides with a thin coating of “white oil” before using.

“The canelé is an artisanal product, so sometimes it doesn’t come out perfectly,” Antoine says. When I tell him that my canelés sometimes have pale yellow spots on their tops, he replies, “Oh, sure, I know that problem well. It’s due to the puddling of oil in the crevices of the molds. When they come out that way, we say they have ‘a white ass’!”

Well, I bought these for THB100 (AUD3.00) at the Farmers Market, K Village, Sukhumvit 26 (the last weekend of each month) at a stall manned by RINB restaurant, which stands for Restaurant In Box. I have not been to this restaurant. It is situated at Ekkamai Soi 2 and according to their pamphlet they handed out at the stall, it is a French Restaurant with innovative cuisine with eclairs. I will have to find time to try them out.

 

 

Yum Cha in HK

In Rome do as the Romans do; so naturally in HK, one must go yum cha! Gone are the days of push carts selling dim sum – nowadays most yum cha places provide you with a menu and an order sheet to tick your selections. Efficient as well as ensure that the dim sum arrive at your table piping hot. Even old names like Lu Yu 陸羽 in Central have gone this way. Someone mentioned to me that Lian Heong 蓮香 still has push carts but I have not ventured there yet.

So on this trip to HK, of course I could not miss not having yum cha. Again my HK friends, K Y and Rosanna recommended this place at Times Square for my convenience since my hotel was just around the corner from Times Square and I have to leave for the airport by 3pm. The unusual part of this restaurant is that its name in English is not transliteration of its Chinese name but is actually Japanese – Heichinrou 禧千樓. The Chinese name is 聘珍樓。As it turns out, this restaurant was first set up by a Chinese expat in 1884 in Yokohama Chinatown – the first Chinese restaurant in Yokohama and still considered the best there! Very interesting indeed. It is like the Four Seasons Chinese 文華 restaurant that is very popular in Bangkok, famous for its roast duck. Four Seasons Chinese did not originate from HK but rather from Queensway, London!

There are several branches in HK and the branch we went to is on the Food Level Times Square, Causeway Bay. Here for your droolings, are the selection of dim sums we had:

豉油皇腸粉 cheong fun in premium soy sauce

豉油皇腸粉 cheong fun in premium soy sauce

Mexico style char siew pao 墨西哥式叉燒包,聘珍樓

Mexico style char siew pao 墨西哥式叉燒包,聘珍樓

蝦米腸粉,聘珍嘍

蝦米腸粉,聘珍嘍

燒肉,聘珍嘍

燒肉,聘珍嘍

脆皮燒肉,聘珍嘍

脆皮燒肉,聘珍嘍

潮州粉果, 聘珍嘍

潮州粉果, 聘珍嘍

叉燒包, 聘珍樓

叉燒包, 聘珍樓

炸良, 聘珍樓

炸良, 聘珍樓

黑芝麻千層糕, 聘珍樓

黑芝麻千層糕, 聘珍樓

楊枝甘露,聘珍樓

楊枝甘露,聘珍樓

Hong Kong style desserts

Hong Kong style desserts are making a comeback in Singapore and Kuala Lumpur; it is no longer considered old fashioned to have 湯圓tangyuen (ah balling in Singapore), 核桃糊,芝麻糊 etc. Of course the preference is still the cold desserts such as pomelo sago 楊枝甘露。

When in HK, one must also finish dinner with a nice HK style dessert. Again my HK friends, KY and Rosanna, during their short stay in Happy Valley, discovered a traditional HK dessert place 蓮園 – very old shop with very high ceiling. The walls are decorated with photos of old HK. The desserts available are your traditional desserts like barley bean curd, walnut, red bean with tangerine peel, green bean with seaweed, baked sago pudding etc.

These are what we had after our nice dinner at Gi Kee (see earlier post).

Green Beans with seaweed

Green Beans with seaweed香草綠豆糖水,蓮園跑馬地

sweet potatoes番薯糖水,蓮園 跑馬地

sweet potatoes老薑番薯糖水,蓮園 跑馬地

薏米腐竹白果糖水,蓮園跑馬地

薏米腐竹白果糖水,蓮園跑馬地

蓮園

蓮園

蓮園

蓮園

蓮園

蓮園

high ceiling

high ceiling

桂花紀子糕,蓮園跑馬地

Osmanthus pudding桂花紀子糕,蓮園跑馬地

蓮園跑馬地

蓮園跑馬地

Hong Kong Wonton Noodles

When we talk about wonton noodles in Kuala Lumpur, it is always dried with soy sauce rather than soup, comes with combination of charsiew (bbq pork) and wonton. The noodles is the slightly thin egg noodles and must be al dente (soggy, limp noodles is a no no); the charsiew must be slightly charred and succulent; the wonton must not be too big nor too mean, and should have combination of pork, fish and prawns. The sauce that coats the noodles must be fragrant, not too sweet and not too salty and preferably with pork lard mixed in.

Hong Kong wonton noodles is very different. Invariably it is soup-based. The noodles is thinner than the ordinary egg noodles and extremely al dente and stringy. The wonton comprises only of prawns. The HK Cantonese style wonton noodles can be traced back to Guangzhou, and was brought to HK by Mak Woon Chi. From here spawned these famous names:麥兆記 (Mak Siu Kee – shop in Happy Valley),麥奀 (Mak’s – shops in Wellington Street Central (next to escalator) and Leighton Road, Causeway Bay),池記 (Chi Kee, shop in Percival Street, Causeway Bay – opposite the electric tram stop),正斗 (Tasty – IFC Central and at T1 HK Airport),何鴻記 (Ho Hung Kee – just moved to Hysan Place, Causeway Bay)。The portion in these places is small: 4 wontons are placed in a small bowl, then the soup is poured in 3/4 full and the freshly cooked noodles are then added at the end with the soup just barely cover the noodles, and it is then brought to you without delay. The story behind the small portion is that one should not have the noodles sit too long in the soup thus should be consumed in 3 or 4 bites, and then the wontons; otherwise the noodles will turn soggy and that’s not the intention. A main competitor to the Mak’s small portion is Tsim Chai Kee, 沾仔記, which is situated in Wellington Street, Central, opposite Mak’s. Here the portion is double the size of Mak’s.

Every time I am in HK, I have to have my wonton noodles. So this weekend, without fail, I satiated myself at Mak’s Causeway Bay shop (beginning of Leighton Road, opposite Crown Plaza) and Tsim Chai Kee at Wellington Street (next to the escalator). At the latter I had their trio combo – wonton, beef slices and fish ball (鱗魚球)。

Pictures below..

Mak's Wonton Noodles, Leighton Road, Causeway Bay

Mak’s Wonton Noodles, Leighton Road, Causeway Bay

Mak's brief history of wonton noodles

Mak’s brief history of wonton noodles

Wonton Noodles

Wonton Noodles

Wonton Noodles, Mak's Leighton Road, Causeway Bay

Wonton Noodles, Mak’s Leighton Road, Causeway Bay

Tsim Chai Kee, Wellington Street, Central, HK

Tsim Chai Kee, Wellington Street, Central, HK

Fresh Seafood in Hong Kong

We had 4 days long weekend last week in Bangkok (Queen’s Birthday / Thai Mothers Day) and I spent them in Hong Kong. My good friends, K Y and Rosanna know that I go to HK mainly to eat, so they had already started planning my dinners and lunches well in advanced. Last year, they rented an apartment in Happy Valley whilst their apartment was being renovated. Whilst in Happy Valley they chanced on this restaurant Gi Kee, 诛记,which is situated in the food court level of the Wong Nai Chung Market in Happy Valley. During the day, the food court has 5 or 6 food vendors but at night the place is dominated by only two vendors, Gi Kee and Sheung Kee. The moment you stepped off the lift, you will be confronted by the two groups. After being there few times, it seems that Gi Kee is more popular, and naturally, KY and Rosanna are regular patrons there. Well it is an air-conditioned food court, and we have choice of sitting at fixed rectangular tables with plastic table cloth or foldable round table (and they will add a large round table top for large groups). Place is crowded by 7pm. At the ground level lift entrance there is a large banner with photo of the executive chef, 辉哥, with one of those culinary gold chains awarded by some culinary associations indicating that he is very good chef. They have their famous dishes like 金沙鸡; but we go there for their fresh fish and prawns. This time, we had the seven stars ‘ban’ 七星班 steamed with soy sauce, ginger and shallots; for prawns, they recommended the ‘bamboo flower prawns’ 花竹虾, which is reasonably large prawns。As we usually like our prawns lightly blanched to retain the sweetness and freshness, we went with this cooking style. We had ordered 12 tahil of prawns and because of the large sizes, we only had around 8 prawns to share among 3 of us, and that was not enough. So we ordered more and this time the proprietor suggested that we do them in top grade soy sauce – the top grade soy sauce was excellent, fragrant and light and provides a bit of saltiness to complement the sweetness of the prawns. However the three of us agreed to stick with the blanching of the prawns for the future.

Here are pictures of the dinner we had.

Gi Kee, Wong Nai Chung Market, Happy Valley

Gi Kee, Wong Nai Chung Market, Happy Valley

Gi Kee Menu
Gi Kee Menu

Bamboo flower prawns, blanched, Gi Kee

Bamboo flower prawns, blanched, Gi Kee

Angus Beef with wasabi dressing

Angus Beef with wasabi dressing

House Tofu specialty

House Tofu specialty

Kai Lan in ginger sauce

Kai Lan in ginger sauce

Tofu - crispy on the outside soft inside

Tofu – crispy on the outside soft inside

steamed 七星班

steamed 七星班

 

Live to Eat and Eat to Live – Aug 3 to 6, 2014

A quick snapshot of food I had had in the last few days – some were ‘I need to fill my tummy’ and others were ‘Yes, I need to fill my tummy but I want to fill it with something nice’.

 

Roast Beef @ Dean Delucca

Roast Beef @ Dean Delucca

Roast Beef @ Dean Delucca

Roast Beef @ Dean Delucca

Dean Delucca

Dean Delucca

dean delucca

dean delucca

roast pork soup with rice @ Soi 38

roast pork soup with rice @ Soi 38

Roast Pork soup with seaweed @ Soi 38

Roast Pork soup with seaweed @ Soi 38

Salapao - BBQ pork, Green Curry Pork and Cream bun

Salapao – BBQ pork, Green Curry Pork and Cream bun

Tonkotsu Ramen @ Ramen King, A Square, Sukhumvit 26

Tonkotsu Ramen @ Ramen King, A Square, Sukhumvit 26

La Monita, Siam Paragon

La Monita, Siam Paragon

La Monita, Siam Paragon

La Monita, Siam Paragon

Hortacha @ La Monita

Hortacha @ La Monita

Spicy Pork Quesadilla @ La Monita

Spicy Pork Quesadilla @ La Monita

Spicy carnita Quesadilla @ La Monita

Spicy carnita Quesadilla @ La Monita

Sunday 3 August – lunch

I had to go to Sathorn, Empire Place to pick up some stuff my ex-colleague has brought from Singapore. I had also read about this new restaurant, Namsaah Bottling Trust in Sathorn, set up by one of Thailand well known chef, Ian Kittichai. I don’t think I have eaten at any of his restaurants, so I thought I will kill two birds at the same time. Hence I timed my trip to Sathorn around midday, picked up the stuff and then went in search of this Namsaah Bottling Trust venue – supposed to be an old bottling plant but now painted in shocking pink. Found the place after 10 minutes walk from Empire Place only to find out that it is only opened for dinner. Tummy was growling at that stage. Decision, decision, should I catch the BTS and head back to Siam or should I look around the neighbourhood for some place to satiate the hunger? Just as I was walking back to Chong Nongsi BTS, my beady eyes caught the Dean & Delucca sign across the road. Hmm, I don’t think I have ever eaten in a Dean & Delucca place other than the croissant breakfast I had many years ago in Tokyo. Over the road I went and walked into the store cum diner. A nice attendant managed to find me a seat at the bar counter as the dining area was quite crowded. Sometimes dining alone has its advantage. The open kitchen had pasta cooking station, sandwich station and cheese station. Scanned through the lunch menu and settled on roast beef sandwich (well it is Sunday and sunday roast beckons). I also ordered their tuna nicoise salad which came first but because I was so hungry I dived in forgetting to take a photo for this blog. Suffice to say, it was nice – the tuna was seared lightly, the boiled egg was not overdone, they had added some nice anchovies which gave the salad a bit of a salty zest. The only comment I had was too much dressing.

The beef sandwich came and I did take a photo. The wholemeal bread was lightly toasted much to my satisfaction. There was good decent chunk of roast beef. However they were stingy on the cheddar cheese, and it would have been good if they provided some relish or mustard just to add some flavour to the beef. All in all, my first foray at Dean Delucca was not too bad.

Sunday 3 August night – quick dinner

My gym had installed new treadmills and my trainer asked me to go try them out. So even though I had done my usual Sunday morning long run, I picked myself up from the couch and headed to the gym. I also wanted to try out my new Jabra Rox wireless headphone as well as listen to a podcast. After 30 minutes of mucking around on the treadmill etc, I headed off to get a quick and easy dinner – at Soi 38 food alley. I have my three usual stalls here – chicken rice, wonton noodles, and the roast pork guay chap. Tonight I decided to have the guay chap. Sauntered up to the stall, I indicated for one and the stall owner asked if I wanted soup which I nodded without giving much thought to it. Food arrived but instead of the usual guay chap, it was roast pork/minced pork soup with japanese seaweed and a bowl of white rice. Well, I was hungry and it is a surprised change, so I tucked in. The dinner reminded me of Mum serving us quick dinner of simple soup and rice when she was busy helping Dad at the shop.

Monday 4 Aug night – dinner

Monday evening is Yoga night. I do a one-on-one session with Les, an English yoga teacher at his place which is only 15 minutes walk from mine. I call the sessions, Many Shades of Grey yoga, as we do a lot of stretches involving a lot of ropes and belts and weights and bricks. Dinner post yoga is always a quick affair and tonight I did not want to spend too much moneys, so off to BIG C to get my barbecue pork buns, char siew pao. They call it salapao in Thai. The paos in this place (I need to get the Thai name) is awesome – the dough is soft and the fillings are quite substantial. I don’t like paos where you have to have two bites before you get to the fillings. They are reaosnably priced too – 3 paos for 66 bahts, around US$2.00! That’s my eat to live dinner.

Tuesday 5 Aug night – dinner

Went to the gym and did 66 minutes run on the treadmill. The readings said I had burned more than 700 calories (but my Garmin 620 watch indicated only 521 calories). Hmm, better stock up on carbs to replace those I had burnt. What better than a nice bowl of ramen. Off to Ramen King place in A Square on Sukhumvit 26. This place opened 10 months ago and comprise of at least 5 stalls of ramen. Different styles of ramen. I like the tonkotsu soup – thick pork soup, with soft boiled egg added to the ramen. That’s my dinner on Tuesday night.

Wednesday 6 August night – dinner

I will be heading to HK this long weekend, so had to do some gift shopping to bring o HK for friends. I wanted to get some nice Thai rice and pork cracklings, and where else to get them but at Siam Paragon’s Gourmet Mart. Of course I then had to plan what I should have for dinner. The name La Monita popped into my mind. Yes, La Monita and its quesadillas. La Monita is one of the best Mexican restaurants in Bangkok – not that I am a good connoisseur of  Mexican food but I would say that at la Monita, I can taste the meat they put into their burritos or tacos. The original restaurant is in Ploenchit at the Mahatun Plaza. Lately they have opened up a pop-up kiosk on the basement level of Siam Paragon. I ordered the spicy pork quesadilla and the hortacha. All I can say is I am HAPPY.

So that’s me fulfilling my motto the past few days.

 

Importance of Nice Bread

IMG_2029Growing up in Asia in the 60s and 70s, our exposure to bread is white bread, white bread and white bread. It was not the typical sandwich type bread found in supermarkets. Well, we were not well to do, so I had not heard of the Weld supermarket until I was in my teens. Bread was to be found in 3 places – the Federal Bakery down the road in Jalan Ampang, adjacent to St John’s Primary, KL (this is where I have my first taste of cream horn as well); the night bread vendor on the scooter attached with a horn (the type with a rubber head where one squeezes to toot it) – the ‘bayi’ bread vendor; and the corner kopitiam with steam or grilled bread smothered with margarine and kaya. The bread we ate in those days were the long thin white bread, commonly known as the ‘bayi roti’. For some reasons, I am not really fond of grilled or toasted bread – just don’t like the crispiness. My palate prefers the soft steamed bread where the melted margarine and the kaya blend into one nice paste with the soft texture of the bread. Butter mixed with kaya is akin to mixing peanut butter and jelly – oozes into the mouth – yummy.

Brown bread was limited to pale wheat bread, and as a child, we don’t like brown bread because they were coarse.

My whole attitude towards bread took a 180 degree turn when I ended in NZ for my tertiary education. White bread is considered unhealthy and for kids only. My world was exposed to multigrain bread – loads and loads of grains. But my favourite is the dense and moist Vogel bread – can’t find them outside of NZ! Small square piece of darkish bread, and when lightly toasted with a thin layer of melted butter coating it, the bread is heaven to the palate – moist, grainy and salty (because of the butter).

I still eat white bread but it is not the sandwich type white bread anymore. They have be in the form of crusty bread rolls, french baguettes etc, – texture and bite.

As the cafe scene took off in the 90s with real coffee, egg benedict etc, bread that accompanies the breakfast and brunch took the form of freshly baked healthy bread; no more the white toast sandwich bread. The white sandwich bread are only served in Asia’s traditional old fashioned kopitiams in Singapore and Malaysia or the cha chan teng in HK.

In the last few years, the trend is artisanal bread in different shapes and sizes with combination of different flavours, grains, flours etc

Smart trendy cafes now boast of artisanal this and artisanal that. So imagine my horror when I had brunch at Melba in Singapore last weekend. It is supposed to be one of those trendy cafes, serving nice omelettes, egg benedict with free-range or organic eggs, fair-trade coffee etc. I ordered an omelette whereas my friend ordered their big breakfast. The omelette was done to my liking – eggs still runny, not overcooked and with generous hint of melting cheese. My friend’s big breakfast looked awesome too – sausages, bacon etc. But all these efforts were let down by the piece (and yes, a solitary piece) of toast bread – pale and limpid piece of white bread. Where’s the freshly baked piece of grainy artisanal bread that one finds in most cafes now.

So Melba, you need to take a look again at your menu and no skimping on producing the best produce. Or else you are just a second rate breakfast and brunch cafe.

Big Breakfast

Big Breakfast

Omelette

Omelette

Melba is in Mountbatten Road, next to the La Salle Arts College.

Oyster Omelettes to Rueben Sandwiches

Penang brother and family in town on stopover from their holidays in Seoul. As usual we embarked on a day of eating. We started with the famous oyster omelette in Thonglor. There is a stall in Penang that does very nice crispy oyster omelette but the last 2 occasions I was there, they were slightly burnt and very greasy with not much oysters.
This place in Thonglor serves different style of oyster omelettes – Or Ror (don’t know what it means in Thai) is crispy and eggy with not much potato flour; and Or Suan which has more potato flour added to it, so it has a gooey texture to the whole thing. The shop also does an excellent pad thai goong (prawns). The oysters are quite big and they only add the oysters in at the last minute, so it is not overcooked. Today while we were there, they had a video playing of a cooking demonstration of how to do an oyster omelette. Fascinating.

Thonglor Oyster Omelette – a small shop situated 100m down Thonglor 55 from the junction. 50 m from the famous Mangoes Sticky rice shop.IMG_2133

Famous Oyster Omelette Shop in Thonglor Famous Oyster Omelette Shop in Thonglor

IMG_2135

After oyster omelettes, we popped next door to have wonton noodles. Sorry no pictures. Noodles were nice and al dente. The charsiew (Moo Deng) was so so. I still think KL does the best charsiew – caramellised and crunchy at the sides. The noodles have a nice coating of pork lard – gives the noodles a fragrant smell and smooth texture.

After these hearty breakfast, we headed to Central World to walk off the calories and to prepare the tummy for the lunch which we had already planned – reuben sandwich. Unfortunately Penang does not have reuben sandwiches, so it will be a treat for the bro. At 2pm, we made our way to El Osito – Mahatun Plaza next to the Ploenchit BTS.

My first foray into the world of Reuben Sandwich was at Katz in New York, more than 8 years ago. Since that wonderful introduction, every chance I see Reuben on the menu I will endeavour to try it. In Bangkok, I have tried this amazing sandwich at JW Marriott Cafe, Tribeca Restobar (Thonglor 13), Bourbon Street (Ekamai) and El Osito. In my humble opinion, El Osito’s is the best of the four. My preference rests solely on the bread – all the other places toast their bread to near crsipiness whereas El Osito’s is lightly toasted. I don’t like crispy toast to start off with. But I think the moistness of the corned beef blends very well with lightly toasted rye bread than crispy toast.

Today, my bro and nephew chose the reuben; my sister in-law chose the chicken reuben as she does not eat beef. I opted for the beef briskets instead. I have also tried their pastrami on rye. Of the three, the reuben wins hands down.

beef brisket on baguette beef brisket on baguette
reuben on rye reuben on rye
chicken reuben chicken reuben

El Osito as the name suggested is a Spanish tapas venue at night but a sandwich place by day. It is next door to La Monita, a well known mexican cafe. The beauty of these two places is that sitting in either of these two restaurants, we can order dishes from the other one – separate bills though. La Monita is also my favourite mexican diner – one of the best in Bangkok. They just opened a pop up diner caravan in the lower floor of Siam Paragon.

High calorific breakfast and lunch today. Just as well I did a 5 km run this morning!